replacing a curved steel butt plate with a rubber recoil pad – rifleshooter.com

replacing a curved steel butt plate with a rubber recoil pad – rifleshooter.com



Many older rifles and shotguns have metal butt plates. Sometimes they were curved as well. While this is a nice touch, often times replacement parts are hard if not impossible to come by if the butt plate is either damaged or broken. In this post, let’s look at how we can install a new rubber recoil pad on a shotgun that used to have a curved metal butt plate.

Before we get to the work, please take a look at the following disclaimer:

The contents of Rifleshooter.com are produced for informational purposes only and should be performed by competent gunsmiths only. Rifleshooter.com and its authors, do not assume any responsibility, directly or indirectly for the safety of the readers attempting to follow any instructions or perform any of the tasks shown, or the use or misuse of any information contained herein, on this website.

Any modifications made to a firearm should be made by a licensed gunsmith. Failure to do so may void warranties and result in an unsafe firearm and may cause injury or death.

Modifications to a firearm may result in personal injury or death, cause the firearm to not function properly, or malfunction, and cause the firearm to become unsafe.

For this project, I ordered the following items from Brownells:

A customer brought in this old 20 gauge side by side shotgun. The curved metal butt plate was missing.

Someone had attempted to fill the void in the back of the stock with epoxy! This attempt to repair the stock clearly fell short.

To fix this stock, the customer wanted to install a new rubber recoil pad. To begin, I needed a flat surface to work from. After some careful set up on the miter saw, I square the end of the stock. Notice how little material was removed doing this, the majority of the stock removed was done by the .125″ kerf of the saw blade.

The cut flattened out the majority of the back of the stock. This is an ample surface to work from. I used a sharp 10″ 100-tooth carbide tipped blade to make this cut. There was no tear out in the stock.

I’m using a thin Pachmyer grind to fit replacement pad. Unlike some of the thicker Pachmyer pads, this one doesn’t have a steel insert and can be ground heavily without cutting destroying it. Luckily, the holes in the stock matches the screw holes for the pad. I used a razor knife to cut slits for the pad screws to pass through and screwed it to the stock.

With the pad in place, I can scribe the outline of the stock. In this case I am using a dental pick. I normally sharpen the pick with a few passes on a stone so it leaves a crisp line.

The pad is unscrewed from the stock and attached to the BR recoil pad grinding fixture. The fixture is adjustable to match the angles of the stock. In the image above, you can see it adjusted appropriately.

I like to grind on a 2×36″ belt grinder with a very coarse belt. You’ll see a lot of different advise on how to grind recoil pads. Some will suggest freezing the pad prior to grinding, others will suggest fine grit sanding belts coated in oil. I’ve found a coarse grit belt cuts extremely well, doesn’t foul and won’t overheat and melt parts of the pad.

This is the pad as it comes off the grinder. I cut is slightly proud all around. For most shooters, this would be an acceptable job as is. I prefer to follow up with some hand work.

I wrap the stock’s wood where it meets the pad with one layer of painters tape. Next, I coat the pad in Kroil and sand it smooth and flush with 120 then 220 grit abrasive cloth. I’ve found this method gives me the best results across a wide variety of recoil pads and stocks.

The finished recoil pad. Ready for the field!





Source link

Join the Discussion

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

arrow